Needles, the smallest part on an industrial sewing machine, have the highest stress placed on them. If you are working with heavy-duty materials (automotive upholstery, heavy denim, or structural leather), using an incorrect needle could be the cause of machine breakdowns and/or wasted threads and materials by skipping stitches. A common occurrence for our customers is bird nesting or broken thread. They typically do not know why this happens, however, we often find that simply switching out the needle will solve these issues.
Finding the correct needle is about more than just "big" or "small". It also involves understanding the science behind the needle's point shape as well as its shank strength. Whether you use a Juki walking foot machine or a Speedway heavy-duty model, you have to understand that the needle has to be properly calibrated so that it will pierce through several layers of material together without creating heat through friction. By using the correct U.S. needle size and understanding its point geometry, you will create better stitch quality and increase the life of your industrial sewing machine motor.
Understanding needle sizes: The US vs. European systems
In the United States, you will likely encounter two numbers on a needle pack, such as 110/18. The first number is the European metric (NM), and the second is the Singer/US size. For heavy-duty fabrics, you are looking for the higher end of the spectrum. Using a size 14 on 12oz denim will likely result in a snapped needle, while a size 22 on light canvas might leave unsightly, permanent holes.
For most industrial applications in workshops across the country, we recommend following these general guidelines:
- Size 16 (100): Ideal for lightweight denim, curtains, and ticking.
- Size 18 (110): The "sweet spot" for most upholstery, heavy denim, and faux leather.
- Size 20-22 (125-140): Necessary for heavy leather, webbing, and multiple layers of canvas (like boat covers).
See our available products for your shop.
Point styles: Cutting vs. piercing
The "point" of the needle is what actually interacts with the fibers of your fabric. Using a sharp piercing needle on leather will cause it to tear like a piece of postage stamp paper. Conversely, using a leather-cutting needle on woven fabric will slice through the structural threads, causing the seam to fail over time. Matching the point to the material is a non-negotiable step for professional results.
Industrial needles generally fall into two categories for heavy-duty work:
-
Round/sharp Points (R): These are designed to push aside the threads of woven fabrics like canvas or denim. They are essential for maintaining the integrity of the fabric's weave.
-
Cutting points (LR, P, or DI): These have tiny blades that slice a clean path through non-woven materials like leather and vinyl. If you are sewing car seats or belts, a "Leather Point" needle is your best friend for a clean, professional aesthetic.
You might be interested in: Essential sewing equipment every tailor shop needs
Heat, friction, and specialized coatings
Friction due to high speed industrial sewing generates a lot of heat. If the needle is sewing through a heavy synthetic or vinyl material it has the potential to become hot enough to melt either the thread or fabric. As a result, a number of professional shops in the US are now using titanium coated needles. They retain their cooler temperature for a longer duration and they are much less likely to bend or break under extremely high amounts of twisting force.
Can’t find the right needles? Visit our website and find yours.
Beyond just choosing the size, remember to:
- Change needles frequently: An industrial needle is usually spent after 8 hours of continuous sewing.
- Check the scarf: Ensure the needle's "scarf" (the indentation above the eye) matches your machine’s hook timing to prevent skipped stitches.
- Match your thread: A heavy needle requires a heavy thread (like Tex 70 or Tex 90) to fill the hole it creates properly.
Needles, the smallest part on an industrial sewing machine, have the highest stress placed on them. If you are working with heavy-duty materials (automotive upholstery, heavy denim, or structural leather), using an incorrect needle could be the cause of machine breakdowns and/or wasted threads and materials by skipping stitches. A common occurrence for our customers is bird nesting or broken thread. They typically do not know why this happens, however, we often find that simply switching out the needle will solve these issues.
Finding the correct needle is about more than just "big" or "small". It also involves understanding the science behind the needle's point shape as well as its shank strength. Whether you use a Juki walking foot machine or a Speedway heavy-duty model, you have to understand that the needle has to be properly calibrated so that it will pierce through several layers of material together without creating heat through friction. By using the correct U.S. needle size and understanding its point geometry, you will create better stitch quality and increase the life of your industrial sewing machine motor.
Understanding needle sizes: The US vs. European systems
In the United States, you will likely encounter two numbers on a needle pack, such as 110/18. The first number is the European metric (NM), and the second is the Singer/US size. For heavy-duty fabrics, you are looking for the higher end of the spectrum. Using a size 14 on 12oz denim will likely result in a snapped needle, while a size 22 on light canvas might leave unsightly, permanent holes.
For most industrial applications in workshops across the country, we recommend following these general guidelines:
- Size 16 (100): Ideal for lightweight denim, curtains, and ticking.
- Size 18 (110): The "sweet spot" for most upholstery, heavy denim, and faux leather.
- Size 20-22 (125-140): Necessary for heavy leather, webbing, and multiple layers of canvas (like boat covers).
See our available products for your shop.
Point styles: Cutting vs. piercing
The "point" of the needle is what actually interacts with the fibers of your fabric. Using a sharp piercing needle on leather will cause it to tear like a piece of postage stamp paper. Conversely, using a leather-cutting needle on woven fabric will slice through the structural threads, causing the seam to fail over time. Matching the point to the material is a non-negotiable step for professional results.
Industrial needles generally fall into two categories for heavy-duty work:
-
Round/sharp Points (R): These are designed to push aside the threads of woven fabrics like canvas or denim. They are essential for maintaining the integrity of the fabric's weave.
-
Cutting points (LR, P, or DI): These have tiny blades that slice a clean path through non-woven materials like leather and vinyl. If you are sewing car seats or belts, a "Leather Point" needle is your best friend for a clean, professional aesthetic.
You might be interested in: Essential sewing equipment every tailor shop needs
Heat, friction, and specialized coatings
Friction due to high speed industrial sewing generates a lot of heat. If the needle is sewing through a heavy synthetic or vinyl material it has the potential to become hot enough to melt either the thread or fabric. As a result, a number of professional shops in the US are now using titanium coated needles. They retain their cooler temperature for a longer duration and they are much less likely to bend or break under extremely high amounts of twisting force.
Can’t find the right needles? Visit our website and find yours.
Beyond just choosing the size, remember to:
- Change needles frequently: An industrial needle is usually spent after 8 hours of continuous sewing.
- Check the scarf: Ensure the needle's "scarf" (the indentation above the eye) matches your machine’s hook timing to prevent skipped stitches.
- Match your thread: A heavy needle requires a heavy thread (like Tex 70 or Tex 90) to fill the hole it creates properly.
Find the right industrial sewing solution for your operation. From alteration shops to large-scale production, Supra Sewing offers reliable machines that deliver efficiency, precision, and long-term performance.